Neeta Lulla: ‘People questioned my style, but I stood by my bold fashion choices’

Neeta Lulla stands as a luminary in the realm of Indian fashion. Renowned for her exceptional creativity, design acumen and profound influence on the Bollywood industry - she has come a long way from being a metric pass to a sought-after designer, internationally. With a career that began in the late 1980s, she has not only witnessed but actively contributed to the transformation of Indian fashion.

As a multifaceted designer, Lulla's portfolio spans a diverse range, from opulent bridal couture to intricately designed costumes for Indian cinema. Her distinctive designs have graced numerous red carpets, weddings and silver screens, earning her accolades for both her craftsmanship and innovation.

Hailing from Mahim, Mumbai - Lulla opens up about evolving wedding couture trends, keeping up with Gen Z and emerging as a fashion trendsetter in an exclusive conversation with Midday.

Here are edited excerpts from the interview:

Can we expect a revival of vintage fashion or are experimental elements set to make a debut?

Neeta: Considering the current fashion landscape, there's a notable emphasis on reviving heritage, particularly in the realm of sustainability, which is a prevalent and significant topic across various aspects of our lives and genres. The vintage revival trend is quite pronounced, with numerous brands actively engaging in the resurgence of vintage aesthetics and working extensively with revived fabrics. So, yes, the vintage revival stands out as a major trend in today's fashion scene. Additionally, there's a growing preference for heritage weaves among many individuals.

When considering outfits for various occasions, people are increasingly looking for options that not only cater to the present moment but also have longevity. However, within the fashion community, there's a wide range of opinions on emerging trends. This diversity is primarily attributed to the cyclical nature of the market, where trends experience significant booms and fluctuations.

Throughout history, in a cyclical fashion, individuals have observed a consistent influx of diverse trends, encompassing embellishments, embroideries and statements in the fashion landscape. Similarly, during the Covid period, there was a notable surge in the prominence of sustainability, prompting a widespread preference for more simplistic garment choices.

What are some unconventional colours set to foray in the Indian wedding palette?
Neeta: Currently, the OTT trend has caught my attention, and I'm completely in love with it. I believe it's something we genuinely need right now. In terms of colours, we're seeing a surge in popularity for unusual shades such as emerald greens, ochre yellows, saffron yellows and orange. Lime green has also emerged as a significant trend in the colour palette.

There's a vibrant energy and I would attribute it to the current positive outlook and mindset of people towards the growth in our country. This positivity naturally translates into our fashion trends. Last year, we witnessed a prevalence of pastels, with Athiya Shetty being a significant influence. Similarly, this year, we're observing a surge in shades like pinks and purples.

Are we back to reds and maroons?
Neeta: Trends are a constantly evolving phenomenon, inherently cyclical in nature. They have a lifespan, reaching their peak for a specific duration before gradually subsiding. This cyclical pattern involves the time it takes for them to ascend, plateau and eventually decline.

I believe the trend for the last season was something different, but looking ahead, the upcoming trend is all about vibrant colours. This shift can be attributed to the ever-changing cycles of fashion. Now, let's delve into your preferences. There's a noticeable diversity that transcends into fashion, and each season people seek that diversity in making a fashion statement.

How does your collection keep up with the evolving trends?
Neeta: My most recent collection indeed features a plethora of vibrant colours, especially in the couture line. We are currently exploring ostentatious capes and similar elements in our designs. Additionally, there's a notable extravagance in our embroidery work. Speaking of Indian bridal trends, red remains a timeless classic. The variations lie in the changing hues, shades and tints of red every season. Pink, another perennial favourite, continues to make a significant impact on our designs.

I'd credit the emergence of pink in the bridal circuit to my introduction of hot pink back in 1986-87. It created quite a sensation at that time, becoming a significant trend. I believe pink has consistently held a position as the second classic, following closely behind the timeless red in the realm of bridal fashion.

Certainly, weddings bring a myriad of choices. Now, when we talk about the shade of pink, it's important to note the diversity within the colour. Pink undergoes changes in its tints and shades every season. For example, in the previous season, we witnessed the popularity of blush pink. However, this season, trends are leaning towards shades like candy pink and watermelon pink. The evolving palette of pinks provides a dynamic range for wedding choices.

You'll notice the prevalence of bright, hot pinks making a statement in every bridal season. While the specific shades of red and pink may vary from season to season, the enduring appeal of red and pink as classics in bridal fashion remains unchanged.

When it comes to trends, who do you attribute the driving force to?
Neeta: Well, the inception of trends involves extensive trend forecasting. It's an intricate process. Even before a trend officially emerges, brides tend to transcend these trends as they strive to make a unique fashion statement. Their individual style often precedes the broader trends in the bridal fashion landscape.

Many brides draw inspiration from actors, considering their choices in colours and trends as a significant aspirational force. Additionally, designers play a crucial role in trendsetting as they meticulously work on trend forecasts, deriving inspiration and crafting their own interpretation of trends. It's through this creative process that trends in bridal fashion begin to take shape and influence the choices made by brides.

How your designs resonates with Gen Z and their fashion choices?
Neeta: When considering the younger generation, my clients typically fall within the age range of 25 to 32 since they are in the phase of getting married. It's crucial for me to directly inquire with them about their preferences because I extensively engage in trend forecasting. Staying informed about upcoming trends is an integral part of my training and professional approach.

Given my background in studying and teaching fashion, I approach the creative process with an understanding of upcoming trends. This knowledge allows me to craft looks through the visuals we shoot after completing a collection, creating an aspirational element for our brides. Staying in tune with the requirements of Gen Z is essential, not just by observing their dressing styles but also by comprehending their mindset towards clothing.

It's noteworthy that many Gen Z individuals may not initially lean towards Indian attire, and my challenge lies in transcending this by ensuring comfort within the structure of traditional garments. As an academician in the field of fashion, my role becomes more nuanced and seamless, given that I teach fashion and stay connected with numerous Gen Zers, making it easier to grasp their evolving preferences.

What is your take on bridal sneakers?
Neeta: Year after year, it's crucial to grasp the evolving progress and mindset. Moving forward, considering the importance of comfort, I find the trend of bridal sneakers, whether embroidered or adorned with sequin work, quite intriguing. Personally, I absolutely love the concept of incorporating sneakers into bridal fashion, as it adds a modern and comfortable twist to the traditional attire.

As someone who's been donning boots under saris since 1985, I adore this trend. It's amazing to see how it has gained acceptance over time. I recall a phase when people questioned the combination of boots with saris, and I confidently stood by it. Now, seeing it as a recognised trend brings me great joy - it's not just a trend but also a source of comfort that I genuinely appreciate.

Considering the fact that shoes are often not prominently visible, the emphasis is on comfort. When discussing options with my brides, while I don't necessarily insist on sneakers, I always suggest avoiding footwear with extensive embroidery for the sake of comfort. The availability of trendy sneakers today offers a fantastic alternative for those seeking both style and ease.

Absolutely, whether they're embroidered or not, what matters is that you're in a space where you can confidently carry yourself with ease. Sneakers have evolved into a style statement and a notable trend, offering both functionality and a decorative element. It's a delightful fusion of comfort and fashion that has become increasingly embraced in the contemporary fashion landscape.

How can brides repurpose their bridal attire?
Neeta: As a brand, I want to share that we've reached our current position primarily through word of mouth. We take pride in being unconventional who not only focus on creating garments for your wedding day but also guide you on how to wear them beyond that special occasion. It's a distinctive aspect that sets us apart.

I make it a point to educate my clients on versatile styling, guiding them on how to pair the blouse with different saris and the skirt with shirts and T-shirts, which is a prevalent trend today. Although it might have been met with curiosity initially, the concept has gained popularity. For instance, creating a corset in a base fabric and pairing it with various outfits can add a stylish and contemporary touch.

I recommend pairing it with form-fitting bodysuits, especially during the period when bodysuits were trending. For the petticoat, opt for a basic neutral colour so you can wear it to someone's mehendi or Pujas. This is how I typically guide and educate my clients. Repurposing bridal attire is crucial, especially considering the significant investment involved in these garments. It adds value to the wardrobe, making it versatile for various occasions beyond the wedding.

Investing a bit more in your trousseau for a neutral and comfortable Indian outfit or versatile pieces like a neutral shirt, bodysuit or jacket makes perfect sense. These can be mixed and matched with various elements of your ensemble. While your skirts can certainly be teamed with different blouses, it's essential to communicate your preferences and intentions to the designer beforehand to ensure a cohesive and intentional wardrobe.