Vegan leather: Compassionate to animals, but cruel to nature?

With a plant-forward approach, vegan products are significantly reducing the harm done to animals in the production of fashion accessories. However, who is accountable for the ecological cost of vegan products? We investigate whether vegan leather is worse for ecology than animal leather

In the realm of fashion, trends can be fleeting like a swift summer breeze. Ushering conscious consumption is the practice of ‘veganism' which demands abandoning all forms of animal products. While the fashion industry has embarked heavily on this trend, the designers are caught up in the dichotomy of using cruelty-free vs. eco-toxic fibres in the making of vegan accessories.

As the trend unfolds, the question arises: Are vegan accessories the true tough cookies in the world of durability and sustainability? For instance, long-established brands have invariably relied on leather and rubber to design shoes and bags. And legitimately so, leather has lasted the test of time to be the most durable material in the making of shoes. And, for bags too!

Deviating from the norms to procreate vegan leather are new-age labels like PAIO and The CAI store, Anita Dongre, ZOUK, and a handful more. Their fresh crops are attempting a sartorial revolution that marries style with an ethical cause. Going beyond the allure of veganism, Midday.com sponged upon the brains of designers to decode the true endurance and sustainability of so-called ‘cruelty-free' materials.

Vegan leather - A controversy between plastic and plant
Vegan leather, also known as faux leather or synthetic leather, is a type of material designed to mimic the look and feel of genuine animal leather (without using any animal products). It is created using various synthetic materials like Polyurethane (PU) or plant-based materials like pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels, other fruit waste.

Shweta Nimkar, the founder of Mumbai-based footwear brand PAIO informs Midday, "We have worked with materials such as hemp, faux silk, jute, faux satins, coconut leather, cork, organic cotton in producing our signature shoes." Validating their ethical standards, PAIO has been approved by PETA which implies that their vegan products are cruelty-free.

With a plant-forward approach, vegan products are significantly reducing the harm done to animals in the production of fashionable accessories. However, who is accountable for the true ecological cost of vegan products? The answer to this is a narrative drenched in controversy.

Ranking higher than plant-based alternatives in the making of vegan items is PU which is essentially plastic. It is a preferred material in the production of vegan leather as it can closely emulate the texture and appearance of animal leather. With versatile customisation options, PU allows for a wide range of colors, finishes, and patterns, satisfying diverse fashion needs.

Anita Dongre recently launched a series of vegan bags and belts in an attempt to dive into sustainability. When Midday reached out to the iconic fashion label, they chose not to comment on the ecological and endurance aspects of the ‘conscious-luxury' products.

Aradhana Minawala, co-founder of the vegan footwear brand CAI admits: "We use polystyrene leather (PU), suede, satin and polyester threads to make our vegan shoes." The durability, water resistance, and flexibility have made polyester a highly-sought after alternative for various applications. While it is more lucrative for brands to deploy polyester in the production of vegan accessories, its synthetic nature unveils the underlying paradox of vegan leather.

The dark side of vegan leather: Unraveling its ecological footprint
When evaluating the sustainability attributes of vegan leather, it's crucial to examine its inherent characteristics and the manufacturing process. While these materials are marketed as eco-friendly due to their lack of animal cruelty, they still come with their own set of challenges. Analysts shed light on the ecological footprint of vegan leather:

Water Usage
The production of vegan leather, often derived from materials like polyurethane and PVC, can require significant water usage. It takes about roughly 20,000 liters of water to produce just 1 kilogram of synthetic leather.

The water usage in producing vegan leather varies based on the manufacturing process and the type of materials used. Synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU) typically require less water during production compared to traditional leather. PU vegan leather often involves coating a fabric base with a layer of polyurethane, which doesn't inherently demand extensive water usage.

However, it's important to note that water usage can still occur during the production of the base fabric and the polyurethane coating. Additionally, alternative materials used in plant-based vegan leather, like mushroom mycelium or pineapple leaf fibers, may have different water requirements during their cultivation and processing stages. Overall, while vegan leather generally tends to have lower water usage than animal leather, the specific environmental impact can vary based on material choices and production methods.

Chemical Pollution
The chemical pollution associated with producing vegan leather primarily arises from the manufacturing processes and treatments used to create synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU). During the production of PU vegan leather, chemicals such as solvents, adhesives, and dyes are commonly employed to coat the fabric base and achieve the desired texture and appearance.

If not managed properly, these chemicals can pose environmental risks, including air and water pollution. Additionally, the disposal of chemical byproducts or waste materials generated during production can contribute to pollution.

It's worth noting that efforts are being made by manufacturers to develop more sustainable and environmentally friendly alternatives, such as water-based coatings and low-impact dyes, to mitigate the chemical pollution associated with vegan leather production. As with any manufacturing process, responsible production practices and adherence to regulatory standards are crucial in minimising the potential negative impacts on the environment.

Also Read: Navigate the rainy season in style with these monsoon fashion tips