18 August,2024 09:10 AM IST | Mumbai | Anindita Paul
Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Pics Courtesy/Getty Images (right) Coco Chanel
Fashion maven or not, Gabrielle âCoco' Chanel needs little introduction. The legendary French fashion designer and her eponymous brand have gone on to shape the way women dress over the years, replacing the frills and fuss of the early 1900s with far more youthful and unencumbered aesthetic. Chanel's pervasive and far-ranging impact can perhaps be noted by the fact that she was the only fashion designer to be included in the TIME Magazine's list of 100 most influential people of the 20th Century, and that her fashion house continues to dictate what's haute and what's not, to this day. To mark her 141st birthday, we look at some of the most significant contributions that are a part of Chanel's illustrious legacy.
Now an irreplaceable part of contemporary wardrobes, Chanel took a colour that was once only reserved for funerals and converted it into a hue that denotes romance and prestige. Introduced in 1926, Chanel's little black dress (LBD) was hailed for being lasting, versatile and accessible to women across socio-economic classes, says fashion stylist Disha Selarka. "The combination of a little black dress with pearls - another Chanel staple - was immortalised by Audrey Hepburn in the film Breakfast at Tiffany's. To this day, few other pieces have been reimagined as often, in such a variety of fabrics and silhouettes, as Chanel's LBD," she notes.
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Another famous Chanel quote, âFashion is architecture; it is a matter of proportions' adds context to the design house's fondness for juxtaposing the wide and the narrow, the oversized and the skin tight. In her time, she was famous for using tailoring methods typically reserved for men's clothing to create the label's famous tweed suit - which features a cardigan or collarless jacket with contrast piping, paired with a fitted skirt that ends just below the knee, as well as to use jersey in more sophisticated figure-flattering draped styles. "The key to acing the Chanel aesthetic is balance. It's to use high quality fabrics, well-tailored pieces that accentuate the most flattering parts of your body. When in doubt, remember that Chanel's signature cropped blazer can smarten most looks and works well for all body types," explains Selarka.
âPerfume is an invisible but indispensable and unsurpassed fashion accessory. It announces a woman's entrance and reminds others of her after she has left,' said the creator of the iconic Chanel No. 5, a fan favourite which, at the time, was considered a symbol for the modern woman. "A signature fragrance can be a strong part of your personal brand. It sets you apart, is an extension of your personality, and can evoke emotional reactions in people you encounter. If you choose to invest in a signature scent, make sure to steer clear of trends and pick a fragrance that works well with your body chemistry - perfume smells different on different people, and just because a fragrance is popular, it won't necessarily work for you," advises Selarka.
Breton or sailor stripes are another Chanel contribution to the fashion world. Her combed cotton and jersey striped sweater was worn by noted intellectuals and artists, with designer Jean Paul Gaultier even elevating the stripes for use in evening wear. "The simple graphic beauty of this style has made it a staple in French women's wardrobes. It is striking and clean, and works well with a pair of tailored pants or even jeans," Selarka says.