Valley of flowers

Global warming is choking our flora to death or causing it to bloom out of season. Sunday MiD DAY tracks a flower gauge at the famous Bhyundar Valley at Uttaranchal... and sees how scarce rainfalls are taking their toll on our glacial corridor and the Ganges

One of India's virgin forests, the Valley of Flowers National Park, at Gangaria, Bhyundar Valley in Uttaranchal, is falling prey to global warming, say botanists and nature lovers. The picturesque area, a trekker's delight, is no longer a haven for botanists or nature's paradise.

The Brahmakamal's (Saussurea obvallata) blooming cycle extended into August this year

The Gangaria village which is home to more than 300 rare species of flowers

A gradual change in the weather conditions have resulted in flowers growing abnormally. Forest officials confirmed that only 60 per cent of the flowers blossomed in the valley this season, some of them blooming in periods when they had never been seen before. Take the case of the Rhododendron, which usually grows in summer till April. They are now seen the valley till the last week of July. This obviously indicates that the warmer climate is lasting much longer than it usually does.

Another flower, the Indian Laburnum, which typically blooms in May, is still seen in the valley even now. There are others like Bhrmakamal, Blue Poppy of Galthuria, Chinese Lantern... and the list continues. "July is not the flowering season for Rhododendron. I saw it when I visited the valley in July-end. As per the seasonal cycle, the flower should have withered away by April," says naturalist Bibhas Amonkar, who returned from Uttaranchal in early August.

Codonopsis viridis is one of the 300 species of flowers that blooms in the Valley of which only 60 per cent of the flora bloomed this year as a result of global warming

Himkamal (Saussurea gossypiphora)

Glacial corridor hit
The decrease in flora in the Valley could be attributed to scarce rainfall in the mountains, remarked ranger Trilochan Bhist attached to the Valley of Flowers Natural Park.

Bhist explains that there has been scanty rainfall since June this year. This has taken its toll on the high-altitude snowfields and glacial corridor, as well as resulting in a change in the temperature in the area, Bhist points out.

Blooming history
Situated at the height of 4,329 metres above sea level, the valley measures five kilometres of glacial corridor in length and two kilometres in breadth. Its bio-reserve is home to over 300 rare species of flora and plants. "All these years, the valley used to be abundant with flowers, particularly on the slopes. There were thousands of flowers in about a ten sq feet area. However, this year, not many flowers have blossomed. The temperatures too are anomalous," said high altitude porter Bishen Thapa, who migrates from Pokhra in Nepal every year to eke out a living.

The Blue poppy (Mecanopsis aculeata), which is supposed to bloom in May was seen in the Valley blooming late into August

The Chinese Lantern (Silene setisperma)

The valley falls under the Nanda Devi Bio Reserve, which is highly eco-sensitive. Not only the flowers; any environmental changes in the area could affect the tributaries which supply water to the Ganges river system.

Garbage dump
While the climatic changes have adversely affected the flora and fauna in the valley, dumping of garbage has seriously threatened this nature's wonder discovered by British mountaineer Frank Smythe in 1931.

Concerns by the Environment Development Community, run by locals from Bhyundar, resulted in recovering more than 60 tonnes of waste from the valley last year. Most of it consisted of aerated drink bottles, gutka packets, food wrappers and assorted packets.

Yet, there is still hope as the local administration has appointed an army of sweepers to keep the mountain pass from Govindghat to Gangaria free of horse dung. The information centre also has been has been educating visitors on ways to keep the valley clean.

Impatiens glandulifera

The Ghodawalla's trek
For ghodawalla (attendant) Satya Pal, trudging 38 kilometres in ardous mountainous conditions each day is a part of life, close to child's play.

While average trekkers take about 10 hours to traverse the 18 km from Govindghat to Hemkundsahib, puny Satya Pal does it in less than five hours. That too, with a horse carrying a tourist in tow.

Like Satya Pal, hundreds of lanky ghodawallas traverse the rugged mountains with ease. Their swift climbing can put even seasoned mountaineers to shame. Their lean bodies belie their strong bones and powerful lungs, the envy of any climber.

What is even more startling is that most of these ghodawallas climb the treacherous stretches with a pair of rubber or plastic slippers. Some of the slopes are so sharp that even horses dread to tread them.

For the rider, it is living on the edge until one reaches Gangaria, from where the path bifurcates to Valley of Flowers and Hemkundsahib, one of revered shines for Sikh devotees. The horse ride is back breaking. It may take weeks before the pain in the lower torso subsides.

The path measuring about five feet is pure rock, with a steep fall on either side. The stench of horse urine and dung continues to linger in the air, all the way back to Govindghat, a small town en route to Badrinath. Satya Pal says his journey begins around 6 am for Gangaria. He hurries up so that he can catch the langar (free food) at the gurudwara on time. "It is important for me. I can't afford to eat in hotels. My average monthly income is less than Rs 6,000," says Satya Pal.

Most of ghodawallas migrate to Govindghat between June and September each year, the season to visit Valley of Flowers