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Awadhi khana comes to Oshiwara

Updated on: 03 December,2010 06:41 AM IST  | 
Tanveer Bookwala |

If kebabs are your weakness and Awadhi your cuisine of choice, then Kakori House's newest outlet in Andheri is where you should head, after reading this review

Awadhi khana comes to Oshiwara

If kebabs are your weakness and Awadhi your cuisine of choice, then Kakori House's newest outlet in Andheri is where you should head, after reading this review

Known for their impeccable cuts and meat delicacies, the Qureshi's are India's oldest butcher clan. After wowing palatable patrons in Fort, Mahim and Bandra, celebrity chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi, known for his authentic Awadhi cuisine, has unveiled his classic Awadhi restaurant, Kakori House, in Oshiwara, Andheri.



As soon as you enter Kakori House, the simple decor can't be missed. It's what a Lucknowi dhabha would look like, if such a thing existed. An elaborate menu talks about the history of the Kakori Train robbery, origins of Awadhi dishes and a sumptuous array of food. Awadhi food is well known for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs, meticulously marinated curries and delightful biryanis.

So, we ordered the Galawti Kebabs (Rs 250) and the Kakori Kebabs (Rs 250) as starters. These are Awadhi food's signature dishes and the best indicator for a restaurant that offers this cuisine. Legend goes that the Galawati Kebab was created for an aging Nawab in Lucknow, who could not chew meat having lost the teeth. 'Galawti means, "melt in your mouth"; that's exactly how the dish was delivered.

The minced meat round patty cooked live over a griddle came with Green Coriander Chutney and another Red Spicy Chutney. The actual recipe is supposed to have over 100 aromatic spices; this version came close, bursting with flavours.

Next, the Kakori Kebab, (theu00a0 specialty) was served piping hot (and spicy) with grounded mince goat meat charcoaled and grilled on a skewer to a perfect brown. The Kakori looks more like the traditional Seekh Kebab. This kebab, legend goes, was developed by the Nawab to resolve the complaints of the British that the meats in India were too tough. Textured with onion, the meat was ground to a fine paste and kept moist so the texture was soft to the tongue when served.

There was no distinct flavour to the meat, which was perhaps lost in numerous ingredients (Ginger, Garlic, Cloves, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Onion Paste, Cumin Powder).

Both kebabs are on the spicy side. Order a melt-in-your-mouth Cheese Kulcha (Rs 60) and Garlic Naan (Rs 50) to go with it and you will be swimming in the unique combination of cheese garlic and spices. Typically, Awadhi / Lucknowi cuisine is all about the meats with little authentic vegetarian fare.

However, we were recommended the Dal E Khash (Rs 210) and were thrilled. This turned out to be the best dish we tasted through our meat-fest. This 'kaali daal' was a very typical black lentils, spicy curry and butter mix but it's probably the hint of red pepper and preparation that made this the best daal I've ever tasted.
For the main course, we tried the Nalli Nihari Gosht (Rs 250).

Nalli Nihari and Roti are considered the most famous breakfast in Agra even today. This delicacy is lamb leg pieces (nalli), cooked with deep fried onions and Nihari masala. Garnished with julienned ginger, chopped green chilli and coriander, the thick gravy dish didn't disappoint.

To end proceedings, the Malai Phirni (Rs 110) was served in a wine glass but was a tad bland. Not as smooth as 'phirni' should be, it tasted like a slightly leathery rawa dosa. Perhaps, the rawa (primary ingredient) was the culprit.


At Shop No 4 & 5, Building 25, Linkway Society, New Link Road, near Oshiwara Police Station, Oshiwara, Andheri (W); Call 64539951 / 64539952, 64539953. Kakori House didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.



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