Walking in their sire’s shoes, second-gen restaurateurs discuss what it’s like to work with their old man but do things their own way
Pic/Aishwarya Deodhar
They have seen them dream and had front-row seats to their struggles—that’s probably why these next-gen culinary entrepreneurs are willing to take their father’s ambitions to greater heights—albeit, their way. And while being entrepreneurial runs in their blood, working shoulder-to-shoulder with daddy dearest isn’t always easy. Sunday mid-day spoke to three duos about their love for hospitality and working in tandem.
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The proof is in the pudding...
Sudheer and Ishaan Bahl# Khyber and 145
Somewhere between dinner table conversations about their restaurant and expansion meetings in the boardroom, Ishaan Bahl grew up. What started as a project to test waters after returning from studying MBA in the US, became a successful venture. “On the day we opened 145, Kala Ghoda,” remembers Ishaan, “in 2015, he told me how proud he was. It was a Monday, we were packed for lunch and had created a buzz in the city. Getting a table at our restaurant was getting difficult, and we had to add four landlines because the phone wouldn’t stop ringing.” His father Sudheer feels Ishaan has taken to the business like a fish to water. “I admire his passion, his attention to detail and his ability to lead a team,” says Sudheer, “From the days when I’d watch him come to Khyber with the family and later with his friends to chill, to helming this business, I couldn’t be more ecstatic.”
Ishaan feels his father’s greatest strength is his vision for great infrastructure and his composure. “During COVID,” he says, “business was difficult, we had to pay rent, and it wasn’t viable to continue, but we had worked so hard to create something so special and I didn’t want a pandemic to wipe us out. It was my father’s remarkable composure at the time—with a staff of over 500 banking on us—that gave me the strength to carry on. To this date, he samples food every day and pinpoints exactly what’s wrong with it, if any. His discipline is impeccable—he is at his desk at 10 am, no matter what.” Ishaan has inherited these qualities from his father and is nicknamed Mr 24/7 because he’s always available for his team.
About their working styles, Junior Bahl feels his father takes a lot of time to make decisions, “which can be a hindrance in today’s fast-paced, competitive hospitality environment. Quick decisions are essential to progress”. Senior Bahl is more of a macro man, while Ishaan gets down to the details. “The smaller details escape me and that is a failing, but we’ve found a way to combine our strengths,” he says. “The restaurant business comes easily to me—it’s in my blood and it wasn’t an option. On the other hand, Ishaan has gone into this with a passion. Maybe I had it when I was younger, but his zeal—especially for food—is something else. The proof of the pudding is that we’ve developed a good brand name and are expanding, albeit cautiously, because we don’t want to be greedy and spoil it.”
My way or the highway
Narayan and Nikita Poojari# Shiv Sagar, Butterfly High, Kyma
Pic/Shadab Khan
Every Sunday, little Nikita Poojari used to accompany her father on his rounds to Shiv Sagar in Kemps Corner and Churchgate. “I was his tail, going into the kitchen, watching him talk to the staff and customers enthusiastically,” says 27-year-old Nikita. “I would swell with pride. Even today, to watch him work relentlessly to achieve his goals is overwhelming. Our entire community is fond of him and treats him like a mentor and guru. As for me, I am still learning—his negotiation skills, passion, vision and confidence—from him every day.” Nikita joined her father’s business and expanded it further by adding Butterfly High and Kyma to the group’s portfolio.
Of their Sunday visits, Narayan remembers Nikita being excited and wandering about the restaurant, interacting with the staff, and asking questions. “I tried to nurture her interest in the business from a young age,” he says. “During my struggling days, I used to be out most of the time, After Nikita was born, I started coming home a bit early and when she’d hear the doorbell, she would bang her tiny feet on the wall in excitement. It is one of my best memories of her.”
Nikita feels they have a lot in common, apart from their physical appearance. They are both independent thinkers, have leadership qualities and follow a no-nonsense approach, she says. “From him,” she adds, “I have learnt to be punctual, to value and respect people, especially those who work for you. And to dream big. Nothing is impossible and he is a living testament to it.” Narayan is in awe of his daughter’s positivity, cool-headedness and risk-taking ability. “Her carefree attitude is rubbing off on me,” he adds.
So, are there never any differences? “Of course, there are,” says the daughter. “We are both individualistic and have our distinct ways of working. I do take his advice when I’m stuck, but I prefer to work as per my understanding and learn from my mistakes. We have our disagreements, but we haggle until we reach a middle ground.” Narayan rebuts: “There are no differences. It’s either my way or the highway,” he laughs. “My daughter is the most stubborn person I know at home and work. But at work, I treat her like an employee. I give her the free hand to make decisions, but all major decisions go through me.”
For Narayan, Shiv Sagar was born out of the need to put food on the table for his family. “I was born into a very poor family, so I didn’t have a choice but to work hard and make ends meet. I grabbed any opportunity that came my way—starting as a housekeeping boy in a canteen and slowly working my way to the top. I wanted to earn so well that I could take care of everyone around me. I always wanted my daughters to join my business and take the legacy forward, and I’m glad that they are doing just that.”
Walking with the times
Shrikrishna Ganesh and Suryakant Sarjoshi# Aaswad Upahar and Mithai Gruh
Pic/Ashish Raje
ANY father would feel proud if his son is a chip off the old block, but most importantly, when the shoes he steps into, fit. That is how Shrikrishna Sarjoshi felt when son Suryakant joined the family business. “He has seen my journey when I was working for another restaurant and was very supportive when I started Aaswad in 1986 near Sena Bhavan in Dadar,” says the father. “I have not forced my dreams on him, but he took a liking to the food industry and took the legacy forward. Suryakant has been instrumental in keeping the food standards high, so when Aaswad’s misal received the Global Foodie Hub Award in London, the whole world knew of this traditional dish and people thronged to Aaswad to taste it. I was so proud and happy.” Senior Sarjoshi feels his son is humble, adaptive and mentally strong.
“I wish I had his adaptive nature...he has adjusted to modern-day needs with ease,” he adds, “He knows his customers and has skilfully used his strengths to fulfil their requirements by working smart and innovating. Samay ke saath chalo [walk with the times]—many from my generation have been adamant not to, and have been left behind. Back in the day, we had limited choices in technological innovations. Now there are bigger and better machines to make savouries and sweets, and people’s need for a basic eatery has changed—so, one needs to accept these changes and create the perfect environment for a great food experience.”
Shrikrishna feels, “Dreaming is a part of human life and one has to choose his dream and make it come true with hard work and perseverance. We have done just that. I don’t know what Suryakant would do had he not become a restaurateur. But he is a tough man with a soft heart—perfect for being a restaurateur.”
“My father comes from a small village called Prabhanvalli in Ratnagiri,” Suryakant says, “People of his generation knew no path other than to toil hard in whichever field they chose. When Aaswad was established in 1986, my mother would make Diwali snacks and savouries for the mithai counter. My father wanted to keep the Maharashtrian food tradition alive. He believes that when you start something, you should be there to keep it alive, consistent and make it grow. We have customers from all strata of society, so he insisted we serve fresh and hot food at reasonable prices. I am glad I have imbibed his perseverance, dedication and focus. I have learned to work towards achieving my dreams, and share the knowledge and experience with those who wish to achieve something.”
Suryakant’s favourite memory with his baba is that of the Aaswad counter. “I would stand beside him and watch him talk to customers, suggesting food items or mithai. Styles of working change from generation to generation. I use modern technology and methodology to ace the service without compromising on product quality. He has always appreciated my decisions and given suggestions in case he
felt otherwise. People come and have food, they bless us when they are happy and satisfied and that according to my father is my greatest blessing.”
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