With everyone hooked to the show Murder in Mahim, we got curious about the neighbourhood and set out on a trail
Mahim Police Station. Pic/Ashish Raje
If you thought a murder taking place in Mahim is the neighbourhood’s only claim to fame, this trail will prove you wrong. One of the original seven islands of Mumbai, Mahim has been ruled by several kings throughout history. It rose to prominence as the capital of Raja Bhimdev in the 13th century and was called Mahikavati then. Rulers changed, and till India’s independence, Mahim remained under the British rule.
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Mahim Fort and Reti Bunder Beach Park
Pic/Ashish Raje
Built over 800 years ago, Mahim Fort overlooks Worli to the south and Bandra to the north. But who actually built it? That story is unclear. Regardless, the fort served as a stronghold for the British. And, Reti Bunder Beach, which extends from the gates of the fort was where boats would dock when they entered Mahim creek. For decades, the fort lied in ruins and was encroached upon by slums; the beach too was lost under heaps of garbage. Eventually in 2023, the BMC restored the fort and rehabilitated slum dwellers. Reti Bunder Beach too has been cleaned up, complete with a park that has an open gymnasium.
Mahim Koliwada Seafood Plaza
Mumbai may not have beach shacks like Goa, but at the seafood plaza you can sit by the water for a seafood meal. The Koli community of Mahim Koliwada cooks the catch of the day. You’ll find all types of local fish, think crabs, surmai, rawas, bombil, king prawns, tisrya (clams), and more. Everything served here has the rich flavours of Koli masala, and is cooked right before you.
WHEN: Opens at 7:30 pm (closed on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays)
Mahim Police Station
Sitting in a heritage bungalow built in 1923, Mahim Police Station seems an odd addition to a neighbourhood trail. But the four pillars of this bungalow have sculptures dating back to 10th and 12th century AD. One is of Dikalp, a Hindu deity, another depicts a naval battle, while the third one seems to be part of a temple design, and finally a sculpture of Hanuman.
The Revolver Club
It’s hard to find a record store these days that’s why The Revolver Club is Mahim’s priced possession. Inside, you will find something that’s more priced! The store has shelves full of vinyl records along with a player if you want to listen to some tunes before purchase. At times, the store hosts listening nights. You might know of them from the various listening sessions they host at coffee shops and bars across the city.
Where: G3 Fairlands, Lady Jamshedji Rd, Mahim West
Bristol Bakery
Pic/Ashish Raje
Mumbaikars popularly belong to two bread camps: Wibs or Bimbo. Bristol bakery is the home of the Bimbo bread. Now over 50-years-old, the bakery has added several products including a range of biscuits and wafers. The bakery also has a kiosk for Jimmy Boy, so you can grab sandwiches, puffs, and pastries to eat.
Where: Pitamber Lane, Mahim
Joshi Budhakaka Mahim Halwawala
Pic/Ashish Raje
Sweetmaker Giridhar Mavji experimented to create the Mahim Halwa, the flat palm-sized halwa that instantly melts in the mouth. He wanted to create a sweet with Indian flavours and his Bhavnagari roots and ended up creating this halwa and gave it the neighbourhood’s name. Now owned by the seventh generation of the family, the shop still stands in Mahim. In fact, Mahim Halwa is often mentioned in many Koli folk songs too.
Where: 6, Kapad Bazaar, Near Bombay Scottish, Mahim
Cafe Irani Chaii
Pic/Ashish Raje
You’ve heard of Irani cafes from the pre-independence era, but Cafe Irani Chaii opened doors in 2015. Filmmaker Dr Mansoor Showghi Yezdi wanted to continue the legacy of Irani cafes, and opened the space to look exactly like such a cafe would in the early 1900s. Expect to find Sulemani chai, Irani chai, bun maska, mutton and chicken cutlets, and of course, keema pav.
Where: Rosary Building, Mia
Mohd Chhotani Rd, Geeta Nagar, Mahim West
Shri Sitladevi Temple
Pic/Ashish Raje
The origins of Sitladevi Temple are shrouded in mystery. But it’s speculated that the idol of the Goddess was brought here by Raja Bhimdev when he moved his capital from Thane to Mahim. Go to see the blend of Hindu and Muslim architectural styles. You will prominently see this in the temple’s main entrance, which has an Islamic-style arch. Inside, there are carvings that depict scenes from Hindu mythology while the dome has Islamic-style calligraphy inscribed on it.
Where: Lady Jamshedji Rd, Mahim West
St Michael’s Church
Pic/Ashish Raje
The church’s Novenas every Wednesday are so popular that over the years a Wednesday market has mushroomed along LJ Road. It’s the first church in Mahim to be built by the Portuguese but it has been renovated several times. Visit not just for devotion, but to marvel at a rare hand-painted version of Our Lady of Perpetual Succor, which was was gifted by the Vatican. It is an exact replica of the original iconic painting which is displayed in Rome.
Where: Lady Jamshedji Rd, Mahim West
Potters’ Place
Artist Shalan Dere runs her studio Potters’ Place in Mahim. The garden studio is under a Mango tree and has ceramic figurines, Ganesh idols, wall hangings and murals, decorative tiles, among other creations. Dere also runs pottery workshops and can teach you how to create designs on the wheel.
Where: Sumati building, Lieutenant Dilip Gupte Marg, Mahim West, Mahim
Victoria Book Centre
Pic/Ashish Raje
Sitting on LJ Road, the book centre operates as a circulating library as well. It’s a trove of old magazines, and has a mammoth-sized collection of book titles in English. The subscription fees is nominal or you can buy second-hand books as well.
Where: Shop No 110, Ground Floor, JN Wadia Trust Building, Lady Jamshedji Rd
Other nuggets of history
The lady of LJ Road
Back when you had to take a boat to go from Mahim to Bandra, there were chances of losing your life at sea especially in the monsoons. Lady Jamshetjee Jeejeebhoy funded a road that extended along Mahim Causeway till Dadar’s Portugese church. One lakh was given to built the road, and later an additional 40,000 were added by Lady Jeejeebhoy. The road was built for a total sum of one lakh 57 thousand. Eventually, the road extending towards Dadar was renamed as N.C. Kelkar Road.
Origins of ‘supari dena’
Mahim’s connection to the underworld comes in the form of a common slang. Legend says that Raja Bimb or Bimbaraja had a “problem”, he would invite his warriors for a feast and tell them about it. He would then place a supari in front of them. If you picked up the supari, you were essentially taking responsibility to eliminate the problem. This story is believed to be the origin of the phrase ‘supari dena’ that came to be used for contract killings.
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