Mumbai restaurant review: What you should know about this Lower Parel restaurant

The namesake restaurant at Phoenix Palladium too has all the elements that lead to the downfall of our meal experience

Thanks to Shakespeare’s significance in literature, Julius Caesar became an important person in the writer’s life during her ICSE exams. She could parrot quotes for marks and assumed salad was the Roman general and warrior’s choice of recipe. Caesar has been resurrected a second time on the second floor of Phoenix Palladium’s East Zone. We’re here, curious about the promises to offer “a modern take on the royal feasts of 49 BC- 44 BC”.

The restaurant space once housed the fashionable The Runway Project, helmed by Vicky Ratnani. Elements of the decor rekindled the memory of the former buzzing bar and produce-driven gourmet food. The menu is a textbook on the times of Julius Caesar, which feels “too much to read” to our fellow diner. We scan it, twice, but are left wondering whether it is classic, modern or just confidently confused. While there is a long mention of how quail was a delicacy and unique preparation, it’s not available.

Shepard’s Pie

We begin our modern sojourn (Lebanese, Continental and European fare) with a French onion soup (Rs 390), and an orchid aureus (Rs 480), which the menu says the Romans were crazy about. The soup has roots in the broths of ancient Rome. The chicken consomme comes with Swiss gruyere cheese, that we lap up for honest execution. Meat stock, onions, cheese and bread—it is fragrant, wholesome and flavourful. The orchid soup has theatrical plating, as the server dips the petals into liquid nitrogen. This freezes the water in the plant cells, making them easily crumble in his gloved hands. The server then squeezes lime into the stock brought out in a jar. It turns purple to pink, thanks to blue pea and lime, which he pours on the petals. On the palate, it is a waste of garlic water with the distraction of slimy petals. But pretty for the Gram.

Bread Basket

It’s a bittersweet proclamation when the complimentary bread basket is the best part of your meal. They come with green pesto, butter and our favourite bite of the meal, a buttered, roasted garlic pod. Pate normand (Rs 695) promises pork, apple and Aperol. It comes looking pretty with a side salad and mini toast, but the pate is like cardboard, lacking creamy consistency. “Probably made in Julius’ time,” our companion jokes. 

Tuna and the Greek (Rs 560) is blue-fin tuna on a bed of tzatziki. A lazy dish, the fish cubes are chewy and the sprinkle of pepper is not an impactful seasoning. Vegetable galette (Rs 420), classically a savoury tart packed with sliced vegetables on a thick buttery base, is but a tasteless vegetarian cutlet, with a cheesy filling in a doughy coating; the spicy apple salsa is refreshing. 

Vegetarians will enjoy the creamy cauliflower and brocolli mornay (Rs 520) which is packed with al forno and Parmigiano Reggiano. Greens dunked in a well-seasoned cheese sauce—who would complain? The Shepard’s pie (Rs 845) is minced lamb jacketed in mashed potato and Parmesan cheese. A hearty, community dish with the right notes of meat and sauce—what we don’t get is the bolognese tomato sauce in place of a meaty brown gravy. A shortcut or a big miss?

Tuna Fin

We make it to dessert, hoping for a happy ending in the Bread and butter pudding (Rs 495); but the custard is powdery. Though the chef confirms they make an in-house creme anglaise, it’s inedible as the bread is a tasteless lump. Only the candied ginger saves face. 

After every course, the server asked if we liked the dish. We understand it is part of hospitality, but an addition should be reading your customer. He doesn’t relent when we ignore his question or show clear disinterest to match his enthusiasm. Patrons want to be left alone, and don’t rub salt on their bad experience by coaxing them to fake a response. The meal leaves us thinking of the Shakespearean tragedy, and we leave betrayed, too. The fat bill didn’t succeed at the promised, modern or classic, Italian job.

What: Julius
At: Second Floor, Phoenix Palladium, Senapati Bapat Marg, above Apple Aptronix Store East Zone, Lower Parel
When: 12 noon to 11 PM
Call: 8828823987
Rating : OKAY
Julius didn’t know we were there. Sunday Mid-day reviews anonymously and pays for meals.

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