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Mid-Day Investigation | From factory to feet: Tracing the journey of fake sneakers

Updated on: 13 January,2025 09:57 AM IST  |  Mumbai
Shirish Vaktania , Diwakar Sharma | [email protected] [email protected]

We go to the source of the extensive network of counterfeit sneaker vendors operating out of Agra, where every house doubles as a factory for mass-producing fakes at throwaway prices

Mid-Day Investigation | From factory to feet: Tracing the journey of fake sneakers

Hing Ki Mandi, a manufacturing hub in Agra

There has been a frenzy surrounding the sale of branded sneakers on Instagram, with people rushing to grab the best pair, often without verifying the authenticity of the shoes, despite sellers’ claims of legitimacy. To investigate, undercover reporters from mid-day logged into various online platforms and contacted several sellers, uncovering an extensive network of counterfeit sneaker vendors operating out of Agra. Astonishingly, as the investigation deepened, it was revealed that nearly every house in the area doubles as a factory outlet for mass-producing counterfeit sneakers at throwaway prices.


Mimicking designs of OG


The sneaker fanatics, driving the high-end sneaker market, have turned sneakers into a cornerstone of fashion, blurring the lines between athletic wear and luxury. The craze for limited-edition releases and exclusive collaborations has fuelled demand, making sneakers a symbol of status, culture, and style.


Fake Air Jordan purchased by mid-day. Pic/Ashish Raje (right) Fake Adidas Samba purchased by mid-day. Pic/Ashish RajeFake Air Jordan purchased by mid-day. Pic/Ashish Raje (right) Fake Adidas Samba purchased by mid-day. Pic/Ashish Raje

As the market evolved, demand for high-end sneakers skyrocketed, with prices reaching astronomical levels in secondary markets. Simultaneously, the rise of ‘first copy’ sneakers—high-quality replicas mimicking coveted originals—gained traction among budget-conscious buyers. These enthusiasts, passionate about stylish footwear yet constrained financially, seek deals and alternatives to expensive limited-edition releases.

The counterfeiters not only replicate the look of branded sneakers but also imitate packaging, including trademarks, to deceive buyers. Counterfeiters in Agra revealed to mid-day that they source soles, laces, and packaging materials from nearby markets, including Delhi/NCR and Ludhiana.

Agra, a manufacturing hub

mid-day discovered that Hing Ki Mandi in Agra is a hub for manufacturing first-copy branded sports shoes. Almost every house in the area is involved in this illegal activity, selling replicas locally and exporting them across India. Manufacturers sell these shoes to wholesalers for as little as R240–R400 per pair, regardless of exclusive branding.

mid-day reporter with the fake shoes. Pics/Ashish Raje
mid-day reporter with the fake shoes. Pics/Ashish Raje

During a three-day investigation, undercover reporters visited multiple manufacturing units in Agra, posing as wholesalers and retailers. They discovered that small houses in Hing Ki Mandi produce 200–300 pairs of shoes daily. Materials, including soles from Jalandhar and branded cloth from Delhi, are assembled by labourers who heat and paste the soles onto the upper materials.

History of Hing Ki Mandi

Historically, Hing Ki Mandi was renowned for the asafoetida (hing) trade during the Mughal era of Akbar and Shah Jahan. Today, it has transformed into a hub for counterfeit sneaker production. Counterfeiting operations in Agra have existed for over a decade, with techniques passed down through generations.

Mad rush for sneakers

Sneaker releases have become much-anticipated events, often creating chaotic scenes in retail stores. Shoppers queue for hours to snag coveted pairs, as budget-conscious buyers celebrate scoring deals in retail stores while resale prices skyrocket online.

Fake Adidas Samba shoes at the manufacturing unit
Fake Adidas Samba shoes at the manufacturing unit

The rise of online platforms has further fuelled the global sneaker trade, cementing sneakers as a cultural and fashion staple driven by passionate fans and savvy marketers. To understand the world of first-copy sneakers, a mid-day undercover reporter spent three days in Agra, purchasing samples directly from local manufacturers. The reporter found that bulk orders significantly reduced prices, making replicas even more affordable.

Day 1: December 19, 2024
Kaibo Shoes Manufacturer, Loha Mandi, Agra, UP

mid-day contacted Kaibo Shoes Manufacturer via IndiaMART and visited their manufacturing unit in Loha Mandi.

Reporter: I am looking for first-copy branded shoes. I’m a retailer in Mumbai, where there is a high demand for them. Can you share the price range and show me some samples?
Manufacturer: We offer first copies of many brands, such as Adidas, Puma, Nike, Air Jordan, and others.

Will they look the same as the original? What about the quality?
Manufacturer: Yes, the quality will be identical to what you need. However, you must purchase a minimum of one carton, which includes 40 pairs in various colours and sizes.

Shoaib, manufacturer in Agra
Shoaib, manufacturer in Agra

Can I take some samples to show my partner in Mumbai?
Manufacturer: We don’t provide individual samples from cartons, but we can give you sample pairs of first-copy brands.
The reporter purchased six pairs of sample shoes (Puma, Adidas, Nike) for Rs 3,500.

Day 2: December 20, 2024 (Morning)
Sultanpura, Agra

Manufacturer Shoaib: We can manufacture first copies of any brand you want. Just show us the brand’s photo, and we’ll make it for you.

Reporter: Do you have any sample pairs?
Shoaib: Yes, we have first copies of Nike shoes. We are currently manufacturing 300 pairs for a customer.


Manufacturer at Agra

Reporter: What is the cost?
Shoaib: Rs 280 per pair.

Reporter: That’s impressive—it looks just like the original!
Shoaib: Yes, check the market rate. It’s very expensive. You can easily sell it for Rs 1,000-Rs 1,500 in the market. We supply these products to Mumbai, Delhi, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, and many parts of Maharashtra. The reporter verified online that the original Nike shoes were priced at R7,085 on the official Nike website.

Shoaib: We have two colours in this Nike edition—red and green.
Reporter: How do you manufacture these shoes?
Shoaib: All materials are sourced—soles from Jalandhar and branded cloth from Delhi. At home, labourers assemble the materials, heat the soles twice, and paste them onto the upper materials.
The reporter purchased one sample pair of Nike Sega first-copy shoes for R280.

(Evening) Hing Ki Mandi

After extensive searching, the reporters found the hub of shoe manufacturing units in Hing Ki Mandi, where almost every house produces first-copy branded shoes.
Manufacturer: We have been running this manufacturing unit for many years. We make the first copies of all major brands.

Reporter: Show the shoes.
Manufacturer: We source materials from Delhi factories and produce brands like Adidas, Puma, Nike, Skechers, and Air Jordan. You can get these first copies for Rs 260-Rs 350. The manufacturer explained the process, which takes 8–10 days for bulk orders. However, the reporter did not purchase shoes from this manufacturer.

Day 3: Dec 21, 2024
Hing Ki Mandi

The manufacturer took the reporter to his unit, which had three floors: 
Ground Floor: Storage for finished products.
First Floor: Manufacturing of first-copy sports shoes.
Second Floor: Manufacturing of leather shoes.

Manufacturer: We produce 200–300 pairs daily, priced between R240–R300 per pair, and deliver them to Mumbai.
The reporter purchased seven pairs of Air Jordan’s first copies for R300 each. These shoes were priced at R28,000 on the official website.

Sneaker lovers speak

Danish Alfaaz,
Singer and rapper

Singer and rapper Danish Alfaaz said, “OG is OG. If you’re wearing originals, it feels good because you’ve earned it. But most people can’t afford them, so they go for first copies. I’ve done the same in the past.” Alfaaz stressed the importance of personal style. “The brand stamp makes it unique, but creativity matters more. ‘Bhed Bakri ki chal duniya chalti hai – apne aapko khud design karo’ (Don’t follow the herd; create your own style). Handmade designs and your own brand hold more value than anything else.” 


 
Ayush Palande,
A third-year mechanical engineering student at Rajiv Gandhi Institute of Technology

”I use branded shoes which give me comfort while walking and running. I feel bad seeing others wearing fake or first copies of branded shoes, but many college students can’t afford to purchase expensive ones. However, we can easily identify the first-copy shoes.”

Anurag Kamat, 
Third-year hotel management student

“First copies of shoes should be available in the market for people who can’t afford expensive ones. Shoes are daily necessities, but college students can’t spend Rs 10,000-30,000 on them. It’s true that original sneakers provide comfort but they’re expensive. However, first-copy manufacturing companies 
should not use the brand names as it damages their brands and affects their business.”

Avantika Padalkar, 
Final-year architecture student

”I never use first-copy sneakers. I only use original brand sneakers which give me comfort. First-copy shoes are not comfortable and look cheap in style. Many college students save money from their pocket money to purchase branded shoes. I think the first-copy market should be shut down as it is damaging brands.”

Raftaar Rapper

“I’m a sneaker fanatic. I have no objections to replicas because, during my early career, I wore first copies,” rapper Raftaar told mid-day. “I used to buy them from Chor Bazaar for Rs 300 or Palika Bazaar.” Acknowledging the illegality of the replica business, he added, “Once I could afford expensive sneakers, I replaced all my fake with originals.”

Raftaar compared replicas to ambition. “Not everyone can afford a luxury car, but they can modify theirs to look like one. People buy replicas out of ambition, and that’s why originals retain their value. Companies often don’t stop counterfeiting for this reason.” “Today, I can’t wear replicas—they’re easily identified in my circle. But I’m not upset seeing others wear them. For many, it’s the start of a dream,” he concluded.

Police’s role

Last December, Mira Bhayandar Vasai Virar (MBVV) police carried out raids at three shops in the Naya Nagar area of Mira Road where shopkeepers had been selling counterfeit branded footwear. Police officers privy to the investigation told mid-day that fake products worth over R12 lakh were confiscated from these retail outlets and three to four people were arrested. The cops had also confiscated cartons bearing logos of branded footwear companies. Counterfeiting issues are dealt with under the Copyright Act, 1957, and Trademarks Act, 1999, said a senior police officer, adding, “In cases of copyright infringement, the aggrieved party approaches us against people selling counterfeit products.”

“Based on the complaint of the aggrieved party, an FIR is registered and counterfeit products are seized,” said the police officer. Such cases are investigated by an officer, not below the rank of a sub-inspector. An officer privy to the investigation of an infringement case in Mira Road said, “Sample pieces of counterfeit products are sealed in the presence of panch witnesses and sent to experts to check their quality. The experts issue a certificate, which is crucial in such cases.”

“The experts’ observations differentiate between original and fake products available in the market,” said the officer. Though the cops can also take suo moto action in such matters, they generally prefer the aggrieved party to file a complaint.

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