Christmas beyond Bandra

Walking around Vandre is a ritual for many Mumbaikars this time of the year, but other neighbourhoods are equally festive and welcome participation

Meandering through Ranwar village, Pali Hill, Chapel Road and up Mount Mary’s steps under Christmas lights and Stars of Bethlehem, stopping at nativity scenes and grottos at the end of the year is a beloved, but chaotic tradition for most. Marol Gaothan and Orlem, home to some of the city’s oldest communities, also host charming nativity scenes, jam nights, and tall Christmas trees.

Orlem has a ball

A large community of Christians have been residing in Orlem for generations, and you can find some of the best Goan food here. Plus, their calendar is full from Christmas to New Year’s Eve with cultural events. For the past 10 years, the Orlem Christmas Ball has seen bands such as A26, organised by parishioners Melissa Debra Pereira and Anna Albuquerque. This year, there’s a performance by Black IN White. Tickets are already sold out, but there are other events and activities you can be part of.

The entry to the ball is a frame of the Bethlehem star

The large, luminous tree heaving with baubles and tinsel opposite Orlem’s church is a mainstay of the celebrations here. It’s funded by local MLA Aslam Shaikh. “There’s also a large gift box in the front of the tree, and the community is encouraged to donate gifts for underprivileged kids. The MLA adds his donations to the box too,” says Pereira. 

The streets of the neighbourhood compete for the best décor and best star, and residents come ready to wow. Winners are announced on Christmas. “By the 20th of December, everyone’s lights are up. We are all very enthusiastic—Lourdes Colony, Tank Road, and Sunder Lane are all streets you can walk around. This year, Sunder Lane has been lit up early and is already looking very sunder,” quips Pereira. 

There’s carolling every evening leading up to Christmas Day. Pereira says that the community usually goes around in a truck with kids and a few people strumming the guitar. “But this year, traffic is really bad. So we’re going to stick to carolling at the church. We’ll be loud though!” she laughs. Midnight mass is a community affair, for Christians and non-Christians, and everyone enjoys coffee and cake before heading out. “Our local MLA also organises carriages that drop senior citizens home after Mass,” adds Pereira. 

Many head to the beach nearby and celebrate till the wee hours of the morning. To curtail drinking and driving, vehicles are not allowed but youngsters sit around and jam through the night on the 28th. 
Local bars host Christmas Eve parties and jam nights all the way to the New Year. People are welcome to bring a guitar and sing along.

Start at: Our Lady of Lourdes Church
Nearest station: Malad West

Marol’s super stars

The heritage houses in the gaothan, as with most in the city, too are fighting redevelopment. But many remain, including an old bakery in the neighbourhood. Ginelle Ebnett, who conducts heritage walks here, tells us about the annual crib competitions.

The Marol Christmas tree that stands tall at Marol 

“Our parish has 16 zones, so there is a crib to see every 500 mts. Community members make the nativity scene together and some are quite grand,” she says. A walk-in crib wowed all parishioners two years in a row. “We have one very enthusiastic parishioner Bernie Netto who makes the crib and the tree. I can’t want to see what he comes up with this year, but I’m sure it will be grand,” says Ebnett.

This year’s theme is Pilgrims of Hope. The church also has a beautifully lit-up Christmas tree that stays bright till the second week of January. Just like the crib competition, there are zonal stars and wreath competitions. Community members will hand-make and compete for the title of the best star and wreath this year too.

The Nativity scene outside Marol

Don’t miss the chance to grab a few fugiyas, the East Indian balloon bread, that’s great with chai. Ebnett’s grandmother, Colleen D’mello, cooks East Indian specialities that you can pre-order and take home. At times, she will have curries, pickles, and a full lunch or dinner menu available. Call 9820660896 to check 
what’s cooking.

Start at: St. John the Evangelist Church
Nearest station: Airport Rd Metro Station

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