Coldplay with a side of fafda jalebi: Follow this Ahmedabad food guide to explore the city

Heading for the Coldplay concert at Ahmedabad? Check out our experts’ recommendations for all things Amdavadi!

At the upcoming “Music of Spheres World Tour”, the British band Coldplay will play their biggest-ever show at the Narendra Modi Stadium in Ahmedabad on January 25 and 26. If you’re in the city, don’t miss out on the local food scene and explore its vibrant culinary scene, which includes a perfect blend of traditional Gujarati flavours and street food delights. On a recent trip to the city, we took Brand Consultant Radhika Bhuptani’s recommendation to try out the food during our stay. She was our best bet because after spending 10 years in Mumbai as a seasoned professional, Bhuptani returned to her hometown, Ahmedabad, to introduce the city to fresh, unique, curated experiences that blend creativity and innovation. She has now ventured into creating bespoke experiences through her personal events company, The Open Slate Experiences. She tells us, “Ahmedabad is in a dry state, so what we miss in alcohol, we make up for in food. It is a foodie heaven. There are ample options in street food and concept restaurants that you could visit.”

Mahalaxmi’s Pav Bhaji

Everyone else too who we asked for recommendations, suggested we start the day with some hot Gujarati breakfast. We tried Das Khaman for khandvi and khaman and were impressed with the firm, silky textures and tangy flavours of the khandvi. The white khaman was perfectly tempered. Chef Sudev Sharma, Taj Skyline, Ahmedabad who we also met during the recent trip recommends it along with Raipur Bhajiya, Gita Samosa, and Ganthia Rath.  Bhuptani suggests Oshwal on SG Highway for fafda jalebi, nylon khaman and methi na gota. Falguni Gruh Udhyog at Vastrapur is another option; while you are there, you can pack some namkeens and khakra for home.

Galouti kebab

Chef Sharma also suggests breakfast at Sandwichworkz—they have an long menu of parathas, shoukshukas and so much more Indian and western dishes.  While Bhuptani is not very fond of it, Lucky Restaurant on Mirzapur Road is known for its maska bun and chai. Artist MF Husain shared a deep bond with its owner, K H Mohammadbhai, and would frequent the place (sometimes barefoot) ever since it was a small stall in the 1970s. Now, an original painting by Husain hangs on its wall. The graves, around which the restaurant is built is left intact—so it’s like having chai with the dead. But that’s not why their tea tastes different—we are told they mix in a little Bournvita and chocolate powder.

Pack home snacks from Falguni Gruh Udyog, Vastrapur

The laaris (stalls) near IIM and a couple of places near LD Engineering College have a lot of street food breakfasts. There is an egg bhurji and Maggie laari, and the five-in-one-paratha is next to the egg laari. “Food Station, the south-Indian kiosk-type shop in the lane near Udgam school is run by an uncle-auntie duo, is open only from 7 am to 9 am and serves one of the best podi dosas I’ve had,” says Bhuptani.

Jalebi fafda thali 

For lunch, many recommended Agashiye at The House of MG (known for its Gujarati thali), and Bhuptani suggests that you also try Greenhouse at House of MG. “It is a beautiful, cute cafe in the old city where you can have either continental breakfast and south Indian fare but try their methi gota, dhokla, batata vada and baked khichdi. Walk in the lanes of the old city, and head to Pol Kholi cafe, inside a 150-year-old haveli, Mangaldas ni Haveli II. Chandra Vilas in the old city is known for the best fafda jalebi. In fact, fafda jalebi originated from there,” she adds. This 124-year-old restaurant established by Chimanlal Hemraj Joshi, who pioneered the concept of the Gujarati thali priced at just one rupee. Freedom fighter Sardar Patel loved the ratalu ni puri and Mahatma Gandhi honoured its doors with his presence. The original four-storey restaurant was tragically lost to a fire during the events of 2002, but the resilient Joshi family revived Chandra Vilas on a smaller scale, ensuring its legacy continues to thrive.

Coldplay’s biggest ever show will be at Ahmedabad on January 25 and 26. Pic/Instagram

Chef Sharma recommends Gopi for lunch and dinner at Vishalla for thalis. Brands like Sante Spa Cuisine, Burma Burma and Foo, which one is familiar with in Mumbai, also have outlets in Ahmedabad. “Try Mauve on Sindhu Bhavan Marg. Their winter menu is great, and you must have their mushroom cappuccino soup, gruyere cheese truffle naan, and thecha. At Lollo Rosso have the khowsuey, fajita bowl, kung pao bowl, and Naman chocolate dessert.

Radhika Bhuptani

Upper Crust is great for non-veg sizzlers, and Earthen Oven is good for non-veg north Indian food. Silver Leaf at Cama has great hot and sour soup, hariyali chicken tikka with cheese naan, kathi roll, methi matar malai, cheese butter masala, egg curry, mutton bhuna and more. For eggs, go to the laari called Anushka near Vastrapur Lake or Fancy Eggs, the eatery next to Olio Pizza Vastrapur on the first floor. Chef Sharma recommends, Soul square  and any Surti egg counter across will delivery quality.

Coffee and chilli cheese toast at Zen cafe

For evenings, you can head to Manek Chowk for desi street-style food or try Urban Chowk, a vibrant open-air food park with a warehouse-style setup with flea market vibes, for dinner. Start with Jashuben na pizza, then dive into Mahalakshmi’s flavourful pav bhaji served with garlic chutney. Don’t miss the powder paper dosa or the innovative ghotala dosa at Balan Dosa. We loved the galouti we had from one of the stalls too. End with softy ice cream from Cheers, chocolate kulfi from Asharfilal, and the refreshing jamun shot at 9834, The Fruit Truck.

Urban chowk is a warehouse-style food court with plenty of options and great vibe

Ahmedabadi vada pav is different from Mumbai’s —it is spicier, and the pav is greased with oil or butter. “The vada pav guy, close to HL College, opposite restaurant Red Rose serves the best vada pavs in the city,” says Bhuptani. Ahmedabad is known for its campuses. From CEPT and IIM to NID, these are some of the most stunning campuses in the country. You can go only if you know someone there and if they can arrange for entry passes. The open-air Zen Cafe at CEPT near Ahmedabad Ni Gufa and has some great hot chocolate and chilli cheese toast. IIM has the Sea Salt Cafe (call them ahead of time for the pass code) where the coffee is great. Enjoy a quick snack and beverage before setting off for the concert.

If you have more time on hand, start your day with a heritage walkthrough the charming by-lanes of the heritage quarters. For a serene escape, head to the manicured lawns of the Sabarmati Ashram, where you can unwind by the riverbank and even spot playful squirrels amidst the tranquillity. While you are there, go for the Viva la Vida Feast at the Taj Skyline, Ahmedabad. There is a Coldplay concert-themed booth with props like glowing bracelets, lyric boards, and album-inspired backdrops, and live performances with acoustic renditions of Coldplay songs performed by local artistes.

Ahmedabad’s coffee scene

For a great cafe experience and unique brews, Bhuptani recommends:
>>  Roastery Culture
>>  Mleko
>>  Kaffa
>>  OCD 
>>  Zen Cafe 

For local street coffee spots, her picks are:
>>  Danny’s—their cold coffee and topi coffee (coffee with Bournvita on top) are a must try
>>  Shambu’s

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