Worli Koliwada: Embark on a self-guided tour to explore the neighbourhood

Worli Koliwada was part of a heritage revival project and received new signage, graffitis, and more. But can you take a self-guided tour there? Sunday mid-day finds out

Almost a year ago, the RPG Foundation worked on transforming Worli Koliwada as part of their initiative, The Heritage Project. This meant systemic urban planning interventions like art installations, upgrading public spaces, curating experiences to improve heritage consciousness, and enhancing the socio-economic well-being of the community that lives in the gaothan.

Worli Koliwada opens at Golfa Devi Temple Road, and it’s evident that revival work has been done through the gullies of Worli village.

The Golfa Devi Temple street is vibrant, thanks to graffiti painted by artists. On the footpath at your right, a plaque gives you the information you need to begin your walk. Spot graffiti on the walls of Harsiddhi Heights, where bright blue fish are painted complete with artistic maps and lines that bear resemblance to fishing nets.

Walk along the road, and to your left is the Cleveland Jetty. Anchored colourful boats bounce on the water, and you can see a large graffiti depicting oneness across the wall painted by the Aravani Art Project. Walk further and admire other artsy walls splattered across the street, envisioned to look like an art district.

If you follow the map laid out by The Heritage Project, you can walk down further with the help of signs to explore the Koliwada. Walk past the headquarters of the Indian Coast Guard, some steps away is the Golfa Devi Temple. Golfa Devi is the gramdevi of Worli village and counts the Koli fisherfolk as her followers who seek her permission before commencing any task. Inside the temple, metal discs are placed either side of the idol and you can ask the goddess a “yes or no” question. Locals believe that if the left disk falls, her answer is a “no” and the right one means a “yes”.

A community space, the Maval Maratha Vyayam Mandir, has also been amplified by artists. There’s not much for a non-resident to do here, except admire the art. There are two playgrounds in the Koliwada, a rare find in today’s Mumbai. But you can opt to see the Peer Dargah or head straight to Worli Fort.

The signage that leads you to the fort is helpful, but only to an extent. The tiny alleys are easy to lose yourself in, and that’s when the residents come to help. At any turn, you will encounter a smiling face, happily directing you to the next spot. It takes some time to find Worli Fort.

Once you do find it, this revived relic is a beautiful spot to catch panoramic views of what Mumbai was, is, and is growing up to be. On one side, is the expansive Worli Village where houses appear almost ant-like from atop. Another corner of the fort exposes you to a unique view of the sea link in the distance, with fishermen’s boats adding much colour to the blue hues. You also see the city getting re-built block-by-block, and cars whizzing past on the coastal road. Unfortunately, though, at the time of our visit on a post-Diwali Sunday morning, the stairs to the fort are strewn with firecracker remains, and other garbage. But sweepers were working away around the neighbourhood, and heading towards the fort as well.

Once you are through the views, head down to Batteri Jetty. The pathway takes you closer to the sea and the mighty sea link. On the way, you will encounter fisherman’s boats resting, being repainted, or under repair. If fish smell doesn’t bother you, you can enjoy views of the Mahim Bay. It affirms the name the Portuguese gave the city, Bombay Baia, meaning “a good bay”. Who wouldn’t want to end their day catching a gorgeous view of the bay and listening to the lulls of the waves?

On the same cemented walkway, there is a Vetal Dev Temple. A common sight in Koliwadas across Mumbai, the Vetal Dev temple is key to this settlement. The Koli fisherfolk offer prayers here before heading out to the sea, seeking Vetal Dev’s blessings for a bountiful catch and safe return. A saffron wooden pillar or dev kaathi stands here where a flag is hoisted on Narali Pournima and Paush Pournima. Inside the temple, there are idols of Sakhba Devi, Golfa Devi, and Harba Dev—three goddesses that the Koli community has a lot of devotion for. Just a few steps away from the temple is the Lord of the Sea Church. A small space, it’s a reminder of how the Portuguese spread Christianity in Mumbai, particularly within the indigenous communities of the city.

Every location on The Heritage Project’s map is of significance to this Koliwada. However, despite signage, it’s hard to locate spots and easier to get confused at each turn of the alleys. More than directions though, the neighbourhood requires plaques that explain the history of the fort and the village, the culture of the Kolis, and significance of the spots they have mapped out. All of which would make it easier for culture vultures to navigate around the Koliwada and enjoy a tour for themselves. A self-guided tour, thus, makes little sense for someone who doesn’t know Mumbai’s history more deeply. Instead, the map is a good route to walk around the neighbourhood, enjoy the sea views and the many photo-ops.

The Heritage Project does host tours around the village. But as this initiative aims at heritage consciousness, we think it would be more possible to achieve that if plaques were placed to tell you more about the significance of the space you are visiting.

Tours around Worli Village

Curious about the history of Worli Koliwada and its people? Here are some touring companies that host walks you can take to give your curiosity a rest.

The Heritage Project: Go on a walk with the folks who have worked on the village’s revival. Follow @theheritage project on Instagram to know about their next tour 

No Footprints: Like many neighbourhoods, this touring company tackles Worli village too and narrates stories of the first peoples of Mumbai. Follow @nofootprintsmumbai  on Instagram to know about their next tour

Khaki Tours: Get to know the ins and outs of the village with their #FishingVillage private walk. They will take you across all the points, tell you the history, and all about the habitants. Check out their website www.khakitours.com to know more

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